Oz Begins
We only stopped in Coolangatta for one night before our flight to Sydney the next day so were sad to leave the sunny skies behind for rainy Sydney. The weather wasn’t too bad, typical summer in Scotland so we had a wander around the city avoiding the showers. We had 3 days in Sydney and managed to pack in a lot of sights including, Circular Quay, Sydney Harbour Bridge, the Opera House, the Rocks and its night market, Darling Harbour, Kings Cross the Botanical Gardens and Hyde Park. We were also treated to a fantastic lunch thanks to my cousin and his wife and managed to squeeze in some shopping too. There was a travellers expo on at the town hall over the weekend which had everything you needed to plan a trip and lots of free stuff so we went to see what we could find. We both won a cruise on Lake Taupo in NZ, given free beer and got some really good deals on hostels and food on our way up the East coast of Oz so left with our free hot dog lunch very happy. The next step was getting a car so we headed to the car market to find a good deal. We ended up on Gumtree and found a great deal so on Wednesday we will be the proud owners of a 1998 Ford Falcon Stationwagon and she/he needs a name if you’ve got any good ideas let us know!
Before we pick up the car we have a few days at Bondi Beach and a night a Taronga Zoo. The sun has come out for us so Bondi is mobbed but it’s a great place to relax and maybe try to surf.
Welcome to the Jungle!
The main reason for visiting Borneo is for the wildlife so we wobbled our way the morning after descending the mountain to Sepilok, home to the famous Orangutan Sanctuary. Sepilok contains a few guesthouses, lodges and resorts which we opted for the Sepilok Jungle Resort which boasted its own swimming pool, an easy decision to soak our weary legs. We also bumped into the Odyssey trip so was nice to catch up with their adventures in Borneo.![]()
The Orangutan sanctuary opened in 1964 as the first official orangutan rehabilitation project for rescued orphaned baby orangutans from logging sites, plantations, illegal hunting and kept as pets. They are trained to be able to survive in the wild with the view to be released back into the wild, so although these aren’t wild it’s a great chance to get up close to these fantastic animals. In fact we arrived early in the morning and were luckily enough to be befriended by an inquisitive Orangutan which grabbed Katies arm and hugged her! You are advised not to touch them but what are you supposed to do when it is the Orangutan hugging you?
Feedings are at 10am and 3pm and are also swarmed with Macaques (cheeky monkeys) stealing the bananas, makes for some funny photos as the Orangutans grab bunches with their feet and mouths before swinging off. The afternoon feeding session is much quieter as the day trippers from Kota Kinabalu attend the morning feeding, therefore the later feeding has more Orangutans and less people.
These close encounters gave us a taster for what was in store at our next stop at
Uncle Tans on the Kinabatangen River and is a great opportunity to get close to many endangered species in the wild. The boat trip up the river was fantastic as the Palm Tree plantations give way to the Jungle! Accommodation definitely isn’t the Ritz but along our travels we are well prepared for basic facilities, so mattress on the ground plus a mozi net wasn’t a shock. Keeping everything basic adds to the jungle experience and just hearing the various sounds overnight is fascinating.
We opted for the 3 day 2 night package which includes 3 river safaris and 2 jungle treks. The best is definitely the morning river safari even though it is at 6.30 in the morning, most animals are getting up and beginning their breakfast. Also the night trek is good as you can get up close and personal with sleeping birds. They all sleep around 3 metres from the ground so its perfect for getting good pictures.The amount of wildlife we seen over our stay was amazing and included: Orangutans Proboscis Monkeys, Long Tailed Macaques, Bornean Gibbon, Malay Civet, Common Palm Civet, Crocodiles, Monitor Lizard, Rhinoceros Hornbill, Oriental Tail Hornbill, Blue-eared Kingfisher, Dwarf Forest Kingfisher, Owls,Grey-faced Buzzard, Crested Serpent-Eagle, White-bellied Sea-Eagle,Great White Egret, various large spiders and many more.
Now those of you that know me know I’m always game for a kick about, so as Uncle Tans had a 5 a side pitch we had a tourists vs guides game. After we displayed our footballing prowess we were invited to take part in a football tournament run by a local village. We accepted and jumped in boats to the “local” village an hour upstream. Uncle Tans is looking to use the village as an eco-tourist destination and has this tournament once a year to strengthen their relationship with the locals. My international team of me, 4 guides, David from Switzerland and our very own Peter Crouch won the competition and awarded by the village head with a Coca Cola and Noodle hamper. Much like the World Cup I guess?! Something very unique to take part in and a definite highlight of Borneo!
We are now in Sandakan for a couple of nights before we head to Australia on Monday, in a budget hotel room with a LCD Flatscreen TV, DVD player and around 1,000 movies to pick from for free. Simple Pleasures after roughing it for a while!
P.S. Photos for Borneo have been updated on the signpost at the top.
Weak at the Knees
Standing at 4095m, Mt Kinabalu was a challenge even before we started climbing. It's not as simple as just turning up and hiking, you need to obtain climbing permits, hire a guide and book accommodation 6km into the climb. The accommodation is run by one company so there is no cheap option but 5 meals are included on the 2 day 1 night trek which is preferred by most hikers. Packages can be booked by private travel operators but these are twice the price so opted to organise everything ourselves to save on the pennies(typical Scots!). We discovered that accommodation should be booked at least 6 months in advance and with the 2010 Climbathon being held at the weekend, climbing was looking doubtful. The climbathon is open to all ages but you must reach the summit in 3 hours, plus the record for the race is 2 hours 41 minutes! Luck was on our side and 2 beds were free so we headed to the bottom of the mountain to acclimatise in a nearby hostel before climbing the next day.
We set off early, picked up our packed lunches and our guide and started nice and easy with a bus transfer to the official start point.. we didn't cheat (honest!). The climb is uphill virtually all the way with endless rock and wooden steps (around 2500) some of which are up to my kness in height! 6km and 4.5 hours later we reached our stop over at Laban Rata just in time for a nap before our first buffet meal. It was a struggle especially with the thinning air, but when you see porters hiking up (and passing you) you really can't complain having only a small backpack and proper footwear, compared to a huge bag of supplies braced on their head and simple trainers.
After our meal we headed to bed for an extremely early night (7.30pm) before our stupid o'clock start for the summit. We woke at 1.45am to a full spread supper buffet before heading off for sunset at the top. This part of the climb is 2.7km and a lot steeper. You have to scramble across rocks sometimes using a rope for balance, but definitely the best part of the hike. This was all in the dark and we managed to get to the summit 5 mins before sunrise, excellent timing! It was well worth it, the weather was calm so we sat for an hour watching the stunning sunrise.
Our decent back down to Laban Rata for breakfast wasn't too stressful, and we left in good time for the final 6km back to the start, this is where things got tough. The first 1.5km was pretty easy, we jumped down from step to step and made pretty good time, that was until our knees started to wobble and it got a whole lot harder. I ended up clinging to the handrail (when there was one) or a rock or tree to give my knees some extra support, and I'm not even the one with the bad knee! We did make it down in good time though and cursed at the 20 steps we had to walk down to get to lunch!
We had one night recovery at the bottom of the mountain and woke up this morning a little sore and a new swagger. It was an amazing hike but I would be really happy if I never see another set of stairs again!
Going Solo
After saying goodbye to the magnificent 7 it is time f
or us to go solo in Singapore so step one was to move from our hotel to our hostel as we are stingey Scots remember! Spent the day wandering the city seeing little India, Chinatown, Raffles, Clarke Quay, Orchard Road and its multitude of shopping centres. Only a few months ago we were in Central Asia shopping from little shacks, now high end shops are stacked next to each other. One of the shopping centres was stocked with Irn Bru which I have been looking out for since Uzbekistan.
In case anyone wants to give an early Christmas present we are open to the Marina Bay Sands Hotel and Casino which has recently opened in the bay. Costing £4 billion to build, the main atrium links 3 towers together which props up the Skypark on the roof which houses many top end restaurants and even a pool. Check out the link above for the pictures.![]()
Singapore Zoo is one of the best in the world so we spent a full day here with the animals. The Zoo is home to over 2,500 specimens from 315 species so it was amazing how quickly the day went! Managed to squeeze in an elephant show, rainforest antics and splash safari, in between Katie going snap happy with every animal that moved!
We are lucky enough to be here for the i-Light festival around Marina bay which is Asia’s first sustainable lights show. The scenery is spectacular without the lights but with various sculptures and exhibits lit up for a few nights made it even more stunning.
Singapore has been a great start to us “Going Solo” but prices have sky-rocketed for us from the days of Malaysia,Thailand etc so we heading back across the border today to Johor Bahru before flying over to Borneo for a couple of weeks.
P.S. We have created a new photo album for the 2nd stage of our travels on the signpost above (called “GoingSolo Photos”)
Farewell Odyssey
Here are just a few of our highlights:
