Welcome to the Jungle!

The main reason for visiting Borneo is for the wildlife so we wobbled our way the morning after descending the mountain to Sepilok, home to the famous Orangutan Sanctuary. Sepilok contains a few guesthouses, lodges and resorts which we opted for the Sepilok Jungle Resort which boasted its own swimming pool, an easy decision to soak our weary legs. We also bumped into the Odyssey trip so was nice to catch up with their adventures in Borneo.Sepilok Orang-utans (9)

The Orangutan sanctuary opened in 1964 as the first official orangutan rehabilitation project for rescued orphaned baby orangutans from logging sites, plantations, illegal hunting and kept as pets. They are trained to be able to survive in the wild with the view to be released back into the wild, so although these aren’t wild it’s a great chance to get up close to these fantastic animals. In fact we arrived early in the morning and were luckily enough to be befriended by an inquisitive Orangutan which grabbed Katies arm and hugged her! You are advised not to touch them but what are you supposed to do when it is the Orangutan hugging you?

Feedings are at 10am and 3pm and are also swarmed with Macaques (cheeky monkeys) stealing the bananas, makes for some funny photos as the Orangutans grab bunches with their feet and mouths before swinging off. The afternoon feeding session is much quieter as the day trippers from Kota Kinabalu attend the morning feeding, therefore the later feeding has more Orangutans and less people.

Sepilok Orang-utans (25)

Sepilok Orang-utans (33)Sepilok Orang-utans (13)

 

These close encounters gave us a taster for what was in store at our next stop atUncle Tans (6) Uncle Tans on the Kinabatangen River and is a great opportunity to get close to many endangered species in the wild. The boat trip up the river was fantastic as the Palm Tree plantations give way to the Jungle! Accommodation definitely isn’t the Ritz but along our travels we are well prepared for basic facilities, so mattress on the ground plus a mozi net wasn’t a shock. Keeping everything basic adds to the jungle experience and just hearing the various sounds overnight is fascinating. 

We opted for the 3 day 2 night package which includes 3 river safaris and 2 jungle treks. The best is definitely the morning river safari  even though it is at 6.30 in the morning, most animals are getting up and beginning their breakfast. Also the night trek is good as you can get up close and personal with sleeping birds. They all sleep around 3 metres from the ground so its perfect for getting good pictures.The amount of wildlife we seen over our stay was amazing and included: Orangutans Proboscis Monkeys, Long  Tailed Macaques, Bornean Gibbon, Malay Civet, Common Palm Civet, Crocodiles, Monitor Lizard, Rhinoceros Hornbill, Oriental Tail Hornbill, Blue-eared Kingfisher, Dwarf Forest Kingfisher, Owls,Grey-faced Buzzard, Crested Serpent-Eagle, White-bellied Sea-Eagle,Great White Egret, various large spiders and many more.

Uncle Tans (18)Uncle Tans (39)

Uncle Tans (38)Uncle Tans (26)

Now those of you that know me know I’m always game for a kick about, so as Uncle Tans had a 5 a side pitch we had a tourists vs guides game. After we displayed our footballing prowess we were invited to take part in a football tournament run by a local village. We accepted and jumped in boats to the “local” village an hour upstream. Uncle Tans is looking to use the village as an eco-tourist destination and has this tournament once a year to strengthen their relationship with the locals. My international team of me, 4 guides, David from Switzerland and our very own Peter Crouch won the competition and awarded by the village head with a Coca Cola and Noodle hamper. Much like the World Cup I guess?! Something very unique to take part in and a definite highlight of Borneo!

Uncle Tans - Football (28)

We are now in Sandakan for a couple of nights before we head to Australia on Monday, in a budget hotel room with a LCD Flatscreen TV, DVD player and around 1,000 movies to pick from for free. Simple Pleasures after roughing it for a while!

 

P.S. Photos for Borneo have been updated on the signpost at the top.

Weak at the Knees

Our 2 weeks in Borneo began in Kota Kinabalu (or KK), the capital of Sabah province in the Malaysian part of Borneo. KK is a harbour city with nearby islands for snorkelling and diving, excellent food markets and a deserted beach, where we opted to spend an afternoon. It wasn't up to Perhentian or Phi Phi standards but we had it to ourselves so we couldn't complain!  KK is also famous for its sunsets so we had dinner one night on the harbour and the sunset didn't dissapoint. The rest of our time was spent organising our climb to the highest point in South East Asia, Mount Kinabalu.




Standing at 4095m, Mt Kinabalu was a challenge even before we started climbing. It's not as simple as just turning up and hiking, you need to obtain climbing permits, hire a guide and book accommodation 6km into the climb. The accommodation is run by one company so there is no cheap option but 5 meals are included on the 2 day 1 night trek which is preferred by most hikers. Packages can be booked by private travel operators but these are twice the price so opted to organise everything ourselves to save on the pennies(typical Scots!). We discovered that accommodation should be booked at least 6 months in advance and with the 2010 Climbathon being held at the weekend, climbing was looking doubtful. The climbathon is open to all ages but you must reach the summit in 3 hours, plus the record for the race is 2 hours 41 minutes! Luck was on our side and 2 beds were free so we headed to the bottom of the mountain to acclimatise in a nearby hostel before climbing the next day.


We set off early, picked up our packed lunches and our guide and started nice and easy with a bus transfer to the official start point.. we didn't cheat (honest!). The climb is uphill virtually all the way with endless rock and wooden steps (around 2500) some of which are up to my kness in height! 6km and 4.5 hours later we reached our stop over at Laban Rata just in time for a nap before our first buffet meal. It was a struggle especially with the thinning air, but when you see porters hiking up (and passing you) you really can't complain having only a small backpack and proper footwear, compared to a huge bag of supplies braced on their head and simple trainers. 


After our meal we headed to bed for an extremely early night (7.30pm) before our stupid o'clock start for the summit. We woke at 1.45am to a full spread supper buffet before heading off for sunset at the top. This part of the climb is 2.7km and a lot steeper. You have to scramble across rocks sometimes using a rope for balance, but definitely the best part of the hike. This was all in the dark and we managed to get to the summit 5 mins before sunrise, excellent timing! It was well worth it, the weather was calm so we sat for an hour watching the stunning sunrise. 


Our decent back down to Laban Rata for breakfast wasn't too stressful, and we left in good time for the final 6km back to the start, this is where things got tough. The first 1.5km was pretty easy, we jumped down from step to step and made pretty good time, that was until our knees started to wobble and it got a whole lot harder. I ended up clinging to the handrail (when there was one) or a rock or tree to give my knees some extra support, and I'm not even the one with the bad knee! We did make it down in good time though and cursed at the 20 steps we had to walk down to get to lunch!


We had one night recovery at the bottom of the mountain and woke up this morning a little sore and a new swagger. It was an amazing hike but I would be really happy if I never see another set of stairs again!

Going Solo

After saying goodbye to the magnificent 7 it is time fSingapore (15)or us to go solo in Singapore so step one was to move from our hotel to our hostel as we are stingey Scots remember! Spent the day wandering the city seeing little India, Chinatown, Raffles, Clarke Quay, Orchard Road and its multitude of shopping centres. Only a few months ago we were in Central Asia shopping from little shacks, now high end shops are stacked next to each other. One of the shopping centres was stocked with Irn Bru which I have been looking out for since Uzbekistan.

In case anyone wants to give an early Christmas present we are open to the Marina Bay Sands Hotel and Casino which has recently opened in the bay. Costing £4 billion to build, the main atrium links 3 towers together which props up the Skypark on the roof which houses many top end restaurants and even a pool. Check out the link above for the pictures.Singapore Night (1)Singapore Zoo (100) Singapore Zoo is one of the best in the world so we spent a full day here with the animals. The Zoo is home to over 2,500 specimens from 315 species so it was amazing how quickly the day went! Managed to squeeze in an elephant show, rainforest antics and splash safari, in between Katie going snap happy with every animal that moved!

Singapore Zoo (13) Singapore Zoo (47) Singapore Zoo (59) 

We are lucky enough to be here for the i-Light festival around Marina bay which is Asia’s first sustainable lights show. The scenery is spectacular without the lights but with various sculptures and exhibits lit up for a few nights made it even more stunning.

Singapore Night (5)

Singapore has been a great start to us “Going Solo” but prices have sky-rocketed for us from the days of Malaysia,Thailand etc so we heading back across the border today to Johor Bahru before flying over to Borneo for a couple of weeks.

P.S. We have created a new photo album for the 2nd stage of our travels on the signpost above (called “GoingSolo Photos”)

Farewell Odyssey

The group split in half after the first night in Melaka, 7 went off to Borneo while the rest of us stayed another night before heading to Singapore. It’s been a week of goodbyes including a night at a jazz club in Melaka where Ben was serenaded by the singer… and Simon -"Hey Big Spanda (Spender)"! Almost didn't make it to Singapore when Pete got caught carrying a huge knife through customs, but as usual he managed to blag his way into the country and we celebrated our final night with the "Magnificent 7" in Raffles with a Singapore Sling (no I don't want to mention the cost!) and everyone went their separate ways: Pete is off to South Africa to start his next Odyssey, Dennis is schmoozing with the high rollers in the new Marina Bay Sands Casino before heading home, Heather is staying in Singapore for a few days before heading to Borneo and Indonesia, we're doing the same minus Indonesia while Nick and Joy head for Darwin and - the official end point of the trip.


Here are just a few of our highlights:




We’ve had a blast these past 6 months and want to thank everyone for a great trip and wish them all the best! We’re heading off on our own adventures from here and will be continuing the blog so keep up with us!

Odyssey Overland Group 2010


A few tips for future Odysseyers:
Bring a Netbook – Wifi is available all over.
Buy a decent sleeping bag and mat, the ones we got worked perfectly (see earlier post)
Don’t bring a shee wee – No one used them this year, waste of money just pee in a bush!
Enjoy – 6 months just flies by!


Urban Jungle

Taman Negara National Park is home to the world’s oldest rainforest plus I think around ¾ of the world’s population of leeches. It was my turn rather than Katie’s to be injured as a leech had a buffet lunch on my toe. One of the main things to do here is the canopy walk at “40” metres above the rainforests canopy, with only a net keeping you from plummeting to the ground! Mucho fun-ness! This was the first national park for while where you are free to wander around without needing a local guide so we opted to head deep into the jungle for some Bear Grylls action but unfortunately never spotted any of the wildlife (apart from Mr Leech on my foot.)

So from the Jungle to Kuala Lumpur where we are sadly starting to say goodbye to some of the Odyssey troops, as flights are around half the price than Singapore so many of our fellow travellers are leaving the trip here. Cue slideshow of the last 6 months of travelling on the first night, summed up the trip well from the first morning in London where many of us were nervously wondering what we had let ourselves in for leading into a montage of drunken nights, spectacular scenery and memories from half a year spent on the road. Kicked off our last group night out well, as we headed to the local Bob Marley Reggae bar for food, drink and some dodgy dancing with the local expats (or “snobs r us” as we like to call them!).

Kuala Lumpur is famous for its Petronas Towers at 451.9metres was the tallest building in the world until 204 and is truly spectacular to see, especially at night. Also as I’m sure you’ll be aware it is currently the weekend for base jumping from the KL Sky Tower so spent some time watching various nutters through themselves off the tower. Spoke to a few of them and apparently they only have 6 seconds until they really have to open their chutes then around 8 seconds to land! Not something I think I shall be taking up very soon. KL is also famous for its shopping especially electronics so we done well not to splurge out on a new I-Phone or HD-TV, trust me it was very hard to resist.

We have now said goodbye to James and Kay who have headed to their new home near Perth, Maggs has flown onto Oz for some sightseeing and Kaye has flown homeward. Neill and Kylie headed off in the wee hours of this morning for a brief trip to Singapore before starting their new life in Melbourne. Our numbers are quickly dwindling as we head to Melaka today where the group who are doing the optional trip to Borneo depart on Tuesday and the hardcore 7 head to Singapore on Wednesday.

We Found Nemo!

On route to the stunning Perhenthian Islands of Malaysia we stopped off for a night in Kuala Besut, just a hop off town so we had some dinner and watched a thunderstorm across the beach - very cool when you're sitting undercover!

After a short speed boat journey we arrived at the "Big Island" of the Perhenthians. The beaches are stunning and undisturbed by tourists unlike the islands of Thailand, so we were in for 3 full days of relaxation on a quiet island - what more would you want? Most of us went straight to the beach to work on our tans whilst others hired snorkelling gear and went in search of Nemo. We went snorkelling the next day which turned into another day of injuries for me. After getting my healing wound from Phi Phi "cleaned" by which I mean reopened by a stripy fish, I split 2 toes on coral, got attacked by a purple fish Neill was taunting which decided to go for my toe and all this was happening while I was getting sunburnt after being extra cautious wearing a t-shirt! However the day was a highlight of the trip, we found lots of Nemos, spotted a few sharks and even a turtle as well as amazing corals, schools of little fish and sea cucumbers and actually had an amazing day despite all my injuries!


We trekked to another beach the next day and bumped into Maggs, Lesley, James, Kay, Nick and Joy on route. The walk there was pretty easy, spotted a flying squirrel, some lizards and plenty of ants. James took the lead on the way back taking us on a proper jungle trek much to Kay's annoyance, but we all made it back safely in time for lunch and some more relaxation before our early departure for Taman Nagara National Park tomorrow.


Jungle Boogie

Khao Sok National Park was the venue for us to meet back up with the Odyssey group where we spent most of the time catching up with stories of the last week. The national park is apparently home to tigers, tarantulas, loris’s and snakes; unfortunately though most of the national park was closed off due it being the wet season so most people just relaxed around the treehouses and had a swim in the river. Quite a bit of wildlife was spotted nearby though including large snakes, scorpions and a colony of ants which decided to take over our bed for a day. It was also our last taste of Thai food so we stocked up on Tom Yum soup, Massaman and Penang curries to finish of our time in Thailand.

 A long day in some rather funky mini buses to get into our second last country of this trip, Malaysia. Changing into another Muslim country is apparent as we noticed the price of beer has sky rocketed so it’s back to drinking spirits for a wee while! First stop was Georgetown on the island of Penang, where its colonial history is evident as there are as many mansions as there are people. Spent most of the day wandering around the city ducking into shopping centres when the monsoon began, even stumbled across Topshop/Topman and Nandos. Opted to spend the evening in the cinema to see the new Wall Street movie at only £1.50 a ticket it’s hard to resist.


Things are slowly getting back to some form of normality now after spending months trying to decipher Asian characters or figure out if it is even edible, now almost everything is in English plus brands are pretty much the same as back home.

We are now on our way for a bit more beach time in the Perenthian Islands on the east coast for some snorkelling and hiking.