The Muddy/Slippy/Washed away Roof of the World
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Thursday 29th July
Well despite the altitude and the scary road up which as mysteriously enough called the “Friendship Highway” we made it to Mount Everest (Tourist) Base Camp, or as Tibet like to call it Mount Qomolangma. After a silly O’Clock start on Saturday and lots of switchback roads we got our first sighting of the highest point in the world at about 10am. A few clouds blocking the view but we could still see it. We arrived at the hotel section of base camp not long after and Pete was literally dragged from one “hotel” to the next getting us the best price. The hotels were literally big tents similar to Yurts with fires in the middle were they burnt Yak poo to keep us warm. They were family run so we had an entire family running after us topping up our tea (even if we’d only taken a sip) and cooking for us… some of the group were even tucked in at night!
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
Well despite the altitude and the scary road up which as mysteriously enough called the “Friendship Highway” we made it to Mount Everest (Tourist) Base Camp, or as Tibet like to call it Mount Qomolangma. After a silly O’Clock start on Saturday and lots of switchback roads we got our first sighting of the highest point in the world at about 10am. A few clouds blocking the view but we could still see it. We arrived at the hotel section of base camp not long after and Pete was literally dragged from one “hotel” to the next getting us the best price. The hotels were literally big tents similar to Yurts with fires in the middle were they burnt Yak poo to keep us warm. They were family run so we had an entire family running after us topping up our tea (even if we’d only taken a sip) and cooking for us… some of the group were even tucked in at night!
.JPG)
As we watched and waited for the clouds to clear we met some travellers who had been at the hotel camp for over a week and this was their first sighting of Everest…. so we were feeling rather lucky as we only had a permit for 24 hours. It was a 3Km walk to what we hoped would be Trekker Base Camp but reached a sign saying “Tourists Cease Step” so we could go no further. With the clouds still persisting we wandered back to our hotel.
.JPG)
The afternoon brought us an almost clear sky that went on into the evening so got amazing views of the mountain. The next day Everest was covered in clouds and we couldn’t have even been able to tell there was even a mountain there so we were pretty lucky to have caught a glimpse the previous day. We packed up, almost got ripped off by our hotel and headed back down the mountain starting our long departure out of Tibet.
We hoped to be bushcamping for the next 5 nights but we have informed that the government are tracking our every move and want us to be in hotels every night (either that or our guide doesn’t want to bushcamp anymore) so that’s eating into our budget ever so slightly. We were lucky enough to be the only tourists to be granted permits for travelling the “road across the roof of the world”, which turned out to not be a positive thing. Whilst in search of a town to keep the police happy and check into a hotel we were faced with a road block. A truck managed to get stuck in a ditch on a road with only one lane way up into the mountains, there was nowhere to turn and no way Calypso could squeeze pass, without risking tipping over the edge so we se up camp (naughty) with the hope that it would clear by the morning.
The next morning there was no improvement and more trucks were queuing up to get passed so we had a bit of a lazy start with a cooked breakfast and set off up the mountain to see if we could lend a hand. The Tibetans were extremely stubborn but also not equipped for the situation so finally accepted they needed our help (and our sandmats, jack and people power). Other trucks failed to pull the truck out so a human tug of war was built which slowly edged the truck out and eventually the truck was freed after 7 hours (footage should be on youtube soon once we are out of China and can upload it). All should have been sorted but so many other muppets tried to skip the queue and invariably got stuck blocking the road further. It was then a bit of a war trying to stop stupid 4x4 cars pushing their way to the front but luckily Barry and Simon were on the case and built a human wall and allowed Calypso to finally move. The road was extremely muddy for the next few miles over near vertical switchbacks and Calypso was stuck for the first time in 101 days so the group got out and pushed her to safety! And finally we were on the road after almost 24 hours.
.JPG)
.JPG)
We then had to find a hotel to keep the authorities happy and somehow shake off the black car that’s been following us for the past week, our aim of getting to Nyingchi 250Km away was unreachable so planned to stop anywhere we could find a hotel. At 7pm we checked into a hotel in the middle of nowhere and headed out for a much deserved dinner. It was a case of pointing and hoping you ordered something edible. Maggs and Kay ended up with spicy offal, we ended up with extremely spicy mystery meat and veg whilst Lesley got a whole chicken in a broth… and by a whole chicken I mean head complete with beak and eyeballs and every other part you could think of. I was busy giving an anatomy lesson whilst Neill and Nick tasted the dish which ended up not being too bad if you didn’t mind your food looking at you.
We headed off the next day in sight of Nyingchi a smallish city where all hotels are apparently fully booked as the road ahead has been washed away, until we threatened to bushcamp on the outskirts and the government happened to find us somewhere to sleep.. and it wasn’t to shabby either! Just so happened to find a karaoke bar last night which was rather cringeworthy but after a few too many drinks most people had a go, even Kirsten joined us after hearing us all the way from the hotel, Taylor tried to serenade a certain member of the group who was unfortunately asleep whilst this was going on and Maggs and Dennis gave us their take on Everything I do, I do it for you.
.JPG)
We have been told the roads will be opened tomorrow but who knows, we may be here in the town with nothing to do for a while. We’re now shacking up with Kylie and Neill for the night as the hotel is supposedly fully booked.. even though all the room doors are open and there’s no other guests in sight… so we’re having a day of internet catch up and Chinese snack trying… exciting stuff! Bring on the chicken feet!!!!
Post a Comment